All Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.

Denise Diaz
Denise Diaz

Lena de Vries is a Dutch food writer and recipe developer who loves blending traditional flavors with modern twists.